A rug serves as a tangible, physical and visual platform for a room - in fact it should be treated like a piece of art. A good quality rug is pliable, its colours will not run or bleed, and don't forget that its material dictates durability and longevity. Following on from my previous post, here are some useful pointers regarding sourcing a rug, which I always refer to when sourcing for clients.
A rug from one zone/room should NEVER encroach into other areas - ie a living room rug should never extend into a hallway.
Getting the correct size of a rug is paramount - it shouldn't be too small for fear of getting lost in the space - ie creating a rug island, nor should it be too big otherwise it will dominate the room and simply be too overpowering.
What material is it made from - is it natural or synthetic (eg silk, bamboo silk, viscose, linen or wool)? What is the knot count - if you are commissioning a new bespoke rug you will need to specify the knot count and it has to fit the grid - remember that the texture is very important.
Silk - silk has extremely strong tensile strength and can easily achieve a luxurious feel to any setting it is laid in.
Mohair offers a unique plushness and is often mixed with other organic materials and creates such a luxurious feel to any rug, like your cosiest jumper giving you a well-deserved hug. Mohair possesses extraordinary lustre, is breathable, doesn't shed and can be treated to be non-flammable. The South African label Coral & Hive crafts beautiful hand made rugs made from a delicious curly mohair and karakul wool blend in the most stunning palettes.
Bamboo silk is simply the name given to a rug made from viscose, a blend of viscose and/or fibre removed from bamboo stalks. ... Further, bamboo does not require replanting, making it an ideal clothing, linen and rug fibre. They are beautiful and very soft, with the look of more expensive silk.
Hand-knotted rugs are hand-made on a specialised loom. A weaver's taxing work is long but rewarding - each knot having been inserted and tied by hand (on average a weaver might tie about 10,000 knots per day. Consequently their quality is far superior to any other rug and can last for generations. Also known as oriental rugs in many parts of the world, these rugs have a flat pile, are identical on the reverse side and are never backed - in fact you can even flip them. A 9' x 10' sized rug can take up to 2 years to craft and would be in the region of $5k. The quality and invariably the cost of a hand-knotted rug is determined by the number of knots per square inch., ie a higher density represents better quality.
A hand-tufted rug is not entirely made by hand, the name is indeed misleading. Instead, the maker uses a mechanical tool called a tufting gun to "shoot" pieces of wool through small holes on a canvas backing which has the impression of the design drawn on it. There are no knotted strands of wool in a hand-tufted rug. Click on the video link here for the most therapeutic clip of Oakland-based artist Alise Anderson's impressive use of the tufting gun ;)
Machine-made rugs have the lowest performance of the three, are much less durable and are the cheapest - they are made on large power looms, and produced using needling and bonding techniques and are normally latex-backed. Any fringing would have been added after production and serve no purpose but for decoration. The only time I would use machine-made rugs would be in a commercial grade quality for heavy traffic areas.
Rug Pads
Using a rug pad minimises wrinkling and slipping and is an absolute must. Not only does it grip the rug and the floor, but it also serves as a protective layer, reducing friction between the rug and the floor. Pads should not be too thick. Rubber Anchor is a good rug pad to invest in, its smooth surface won't show through even the thinnest of killims; they are natural, constructed of dense sponge rubber and are non-allergenic - you won't regret this decision. Another tip is to always pay the fee for rug spreading, the rug professionals will lay your rugs perfectly without a single crease and is a worthwhile investment.
As I mentioned in my previous post, choose a socially and environmentally conscious rug - look for Woolmark licences, Charitable Fund or Goodweave logos. I hope this helps everyone in navigating the often overwhelming task of choosing rugs.
Enjoy rug shopping and please email me on info@scott-dunneinteriors.design for anything you'd like me to write about. Thanks for all your positive feedback ;)
Key things to be considered:
- The purpose of the rug;
- Amounts of natural and artificial light in the area where the rug will be;
- Room size and configuration;
- Traffic (high, low, offset etc);
- Which material and construction will work best;
- Ceiling height;
- A rug's visibility.
How to optimise the space/correct rug size:
Of course the placing of rugs is subjective, like so many other things, but the basic rule of thumb is to leave a border of approximately .6 metre (60 cm or two feet!) between the edge of the rug and the wall, for the width of a room, and a little more for the length (.7 metre). A rug should anchor a room, don't create a rug island effect by skimping of a smaller rug instead of choosing the optimal size.
For dining rooms, you should calculculate the size of the rug so that when all the chairs are pulled out - ie so people can sit down - and add about 30cm around those dimensions. Similarly, for bedrooms, everyone likes to get out of bed and feel a little luxury between their toes - ideally leave 60 cm either side of the bed.
Generally for living rooms, all furniture should sit on the rug, with the only exception being when a sofa for example is placed near a wall - of course any good designer knows that no furniture should be right up next to a wall as the beauty of the back of furniture can often be as stunning (if not more so) than the front or side aspects - a perfect example is the image below of The Smoking Room at Bowhill House, designed by Timorous Beasties - these are such a magnificent focal point and their glory must be fully appreciated (note also how each piece of furniture is placed with precision on the antique rug.
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| This 60% wool/40% silk hand-knotted Nepalese rug from Stark Carpet sits perfectly under this Safavieh Couture dining table (with hide stools by Arteriors Home and dining chairs from West Elm Chelsea) |
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| This bedroom bamboo silk rug from ABC Carpet & Home is beautifully proportioned under the Safavieh Couture bed and the Design Within Reach bedside table and gives that luxurious feeling when you step out of bed in the mornings |
Generally for living rooms, all furniture should sit on the rug, with the only exception being when a sofa for example is placed near a wall - of course any good designer knows that no furniture should be right up next to a wall as the beauty of the back of furniture can often be as stunning (if not more so) than the front or side aspects - a perfect example is the image below of The Smoking Room at Bowhill House, designed by Timorous Beasties - these are such a magnificent focal point and their glory must be fully appreciated (note also how each piece of furniture is placed with precision on the antique rug.
 |
| Beautifully designed chaise longue by Timorous Beasties detailing an embroidered vignette of Bowhill House |
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| Another 65/35 hand-knotted wool and bamboo Indian silk rug from Stark Carpet creates a snug reading nook (BTW this custom beige cowhide armchair is one of the most favourite items I have ever designed for a client ;D ), side table from BoConcept and sequinned cushion from ABC Carpet & Home |
A rug from one zone/room should NEVER encroach into other areas - ie a living room rug should never extend into a hallway.
Getting the correct size of a rug is paramount - it shouldn't be too small for fear of getting lost in the space - ie creating a rug island, nor should it be too big otherwise it will dominate the room and simply be too overpowering.
What to ask when buying/ordering a rug:
If you're looking to purchase an old rug, ask what year it was made (any rug made prior to the 1940s can be classified as antique - whilst a 1950s rug is classified as vintage).What material is it made from - is it natural or synthetic (eg silk, bamboo silk, viscose, linen or wool)? What is the knot count - if you are commissioning a new bespoke rug you will need to specify the knot count and it has to fit the grid - remember that the texture is very important.
Machine made or natural fibre
Here is a breakdown of the 4 most popular materials used in luxury rugs:
Wool - One needs to remember that good wool has a high percentage of lanoline (making it stain repellant) and will therefore never shed since the fibres are longer. If a rug sheds, it is because its fibres are not interconnected and have a low lanoline content. A wool rug can possess reflective and luxurious qualities and used in a formal or casual setting, depending on how it is crafted. Be mindful that good quality wool comes from mountainous regions with cold winters/climate.Silk - silk has extremely strong tensile strength and can easily achieve a luxurious feel to any setting it is laid in.
Mohair offers a unique plushness and is often mixed with other organic materials and creates such a luxurious feel to any rug, like your cosiest jumper giving you a well-deserved hug. Mohair possesses extraordinary lustre, is breathable, doesn't shed and can be treated to be non-flammable. The South African label Coral & Hive crafts beautiful hand made rugs made from a delicious curly mohair and karakul wool blend in the most stunning palettes.
 |
| Light catching the sheen of this calming palette of pastels and cream mohair rugs by Coal & Hive |
Bamboo silk is simply the name given to a rug made from viscose, a blend of viscose and/or fibre removed from bamboo stalks. ... Further, bamboo does not require replanting, making it an ideal clothing, linen and rug fibre. They are beautiful and very soft, with the look of more expensive silk.
The lowdown on different types of rug construction and how to distinguish between them:
The three types of rugs are Hand-knotted, Hand-tufted, and Machine-made:Hand-knotted rugs are hand-made on a specialised loom. A weaver's taxing work is long but rewarding - each knot having been inserted and tied by hand (on average a weaver might tie about 10,000 knots per day. Consequently their quality is far superior to any other rug and can last for generations. Also known as oriental rugs in many parts of the world, these rugs have a flat pile, are identical on the reverse side and are never backed - in fact you can even flip them. A 9' x 10' sized rug can take up to 2 years to craft and would be in the region of $5k. The quality and invariably the cost of a hand-knotted rug is determined by the number of knots per square inch., ie a higher density represents better quality.
A hand-tufted rug is not entirely made by hand, the name is indeed misleading. Instead, the maker uses a mechanical tool called a tufting gun to "shoot" pieces of wool through small holes on a canvas backing which has the impression of the design drawn on it. There are no knotted strands of wool in a hand-tufted rug. Click on the video link here for the most therapeutic clip of Oakland-based artist Alise Anderson's impressive use of the tufting gun ;)
Machine-made rugs have the lowest performance of the three, are much less durable and are the cheapest - they are made on large power looms, and produced using needling and bonding techniques and are normally latex-backed. Any fringing would have been added after production and serve no purpose but for decoration. The only time I would use machine-made rugs would be in a commercial grade quality for heavy traffic areas.
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| Hospitality/Contract grade machine made carpets which can be bound as a rug (these are from Sacco Carpet) |
Rug Pads
Using a rug pad minimises wrinkling and slipping and is an absolute must. Not only does it grip the rug and the floor, but it also serves as a protective layer, reducing friction between the rug and the floor. Pads should not be too thick. Rubber Anchor is a good rug pad to invest in, its smooth surface won't show through even the thinnest of killims; they are natural, constructed of dense sponge rubber and are non-allergenic - you won't regret this decision. Another tip is to always pay the fee for rug spreading, the rug professionals will lay your rugs perfectly without a single crease and is a worthwhile investment.
As I mentioned in my previous post, choose a socially and environmentally conscious rug - look for Woolmark licences, Charitable Fund or Goodweave logos. I hope this helps everyone in navigating the often overwhelming task of choosing rugs.
Enjoy rug shopping and please email me on info@scott-dunneinteriors.design for anything you'd like me to write about. Thanks for all your positive feedback ;)
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